These pictures are from when I had an early Safari Gard Stage II suspension on my truck. They should show most of the pertinent technical details on the system.
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These are various test shots from the maiden voyage of my
SGII system. The front and rear drop shots show the axle at the longest
extension where traction was retained.Bottom middle shows the limit of the bump stop with 35" tires. |
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| This is a nice shot of a wheel off the ground.
Since I didn't have my bumper on yet, you can see the steering equipment
quite well. This shot should be excellent for looking at the limits of the steering for extreme modifications. |
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Front at full drop |
Rear at full upward travel | Rear at full downward travel | |
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Twisty gives an idea for what articulation does. <GRIN> Silder
clearance shows an early SG flaw with 35" tires and their rock sliders.
This has |
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Above: This shows the old style brake extenders, which simply moved the bracket for the existing metal line down a few inches. The more modern setup includes metal braided lines which are longer and I believe this setup is shipped with SGII and SGIII setups. Below: This shows the lower shock mount, which is customized to take an eye-type shock. I found this to be a VERY good idea given the wear on the bolts from rock rubbing when I removed my stock shocks. |
Above: This shows the rear lower spring mount and spacer plate, including the spring clip which holds the spring in place during extreme articulation.
Below: The top retaining clip. |
Above: This shows the lower shock mount and the spring block which raise
the truck an additional two inches. This kit used Range Rover Below: This shows the radius arm, lower shock and spring mounts and the bump stops. The front end on the SGII was decent, the rear bit the big one, primarily because of weak spring rates, which tore up a bunch of the single-bolt bump stops. Later two-bolt bump stops were a result of my critique. |
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Above: This shows the full bend in the SG radius arm used in the SGII and SGIII suspensions. Above left: The clearance of the driveshaft on the crossmember. I see this as a major problem on more radical front suspensions as this picture was taken at rest Left: The front driveshaft at the lower U-Joint, giving you an idea of what the driveline angle looks like with the bent radius arms tiliting the diff upward. The problem with this setup is that if the diff runs low on lube, the pinion bearings get infrequent lubrication and tend to die. I've been through that one once already. |
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Many people have asked about tire rubbing on their trucks, especially with larger tires. This shot clearly shows the adjustment bolt. You will have to replace this bolt with a Grade 8 bolt of a slightly longer length. It is metric, if I recall properly. Adjust it as far out as necessary to keep the tire off the radius arm, but as far in as you can go to keep plenty of threads in the metal for strength. With power steering, rocks, and lockers, these suckers are easy to bend. | |
Sean P. Murphy
Project Director, LearnLink
Emory University